Using the word obsession in the realms of alcohol may seem like a red flag to most, but the obsession is not (all) in the drinking but the beauty of the place, grape, and history. The past month I have posted more about one grape than I really should, but I am so captivated by Nebbiolo I cannot help help explore the varital every which way I can.
Upon return from the Alba Wine Exhibition my travel companion and "tasting buddy", Mark M., suggested that we explore the wines of Barolo, Barbaresco, Roero and Nebbiolo d' Abla in a blind tasting format to see if we can identify the differences between the regions. Mark decided that our monthly tasting group was the place to put the wines to task. Mark and I decided that six wines two from Barolo, two from Barbaresco and one each from Roero and the Nebbiolo d' Alba DOC would be a good sampling. We had each of them decanted by another person so Mark and I did not know which wine was which, allowing us to test a bit of our mettle. The rest of the group only knew that the grape was Nebbiolo and the vintage was 2004.
(The line up of our night. The highest rated wine is on the left and the lowest on the right)
We asked that each taster rank the wines in order of preference (1 being their favorite and 6 being their least) and to determine the DOC/DOCG of each wine. What was I looking for? I wanted to see if there were specific characteristics that I could pin-point to help me identify regions more accurately. While tasting I was using a traditional rubric for the regions, trying to fit each wine into specific categories then deciding what was from where and why. My past experiences have lead me to believe the following: 1. Barolos were going to be less open on the nose, higher in tannins, and a tad bit rougher around the edges, 2. Barbarescos would be similar but have more elegance and accessibility to them, 3. Roero/Nebbiolo d'Alba woud be even more accessible, fruit forward and lack the overall structure that Barolo and Barbarescos posses. My thought process was not as accurate as I had hopped; I pegged three wines correctly, was flabbergasted by one, and the remaining two were guesses. The biggest surprise to the group was the Bartolo Mascarello. Mascarello is one of THE definitive Barolos, constantly producing some of the most long lived and classic examples of Barolo. Not one person in our group pegged this for Barolo. The wine was easy, soft, elegant, and a great glass of wine, not normally the adjectives that are associated with Mascarello. We all commented on tremendous structure that will allowing the wine to evolve for many years. Each member of the group was struck by how drinkable the wine and that the 2004 Mascarello is the posterchild of an youthful Barolo that is drinkable today. My previous encounters with young Macarello were the exact opposite of the 2004. I was expecting a wine that was tough as nails, tannic, and needed a lot more time before it I would really enjoy a glass of it. I even thought
I pegged the wine, but instead what I thought was Mascarello was a beautiful Barbaresco, Ovello Cru, from Cantina del Pino. The wine blew me away. Its depth, complexity, and firmness assured me that it was Barolo, but I was pleasantly wrong. I will be buying a case of Cantina del Pino for my cellar. This is a birth year wine, a wine for ten year wedding anniversary, or any excuse to purchase some great wine and put it away. The next surprise was the second highest rated wine, Cascina Val del Prete, "Vigna di Lino" Nebbiolo d' Alba. Again, I was certain I had nailed it as Marchesi di Gresy "Martinenga" Barbaresco, but I was wrong and the better for it. Val del Prete was such a complete wine that I actually wrote more notes about this wine than any other. It had seductive aromas of sour cherries, dried roses, black tea, dried herbs, earth and it goes on. The palate was complex, balanced and stunning with a finish that lasted such a long time that when I finished my last sip I was a tad bit distraught.
What did I learn? I learned that I need to continue to do comparative tastings and really search for the subtle differences that make each of these regions tick. Conversely, I saw that the wines of Barolo, Barbarsco, Roero, and Nebbiolo d' Alba have many more similarities that I previously thought. It is fantastic that producers in each region are working harder each vintage to make the best possible wine they can and allow us lovers of wine to continue our never ending quest of sharing a great glass of wine.
Tasting Results
Group Score Jeff's Score/Region Wine
1st 1st(Barolo) Cantina del Pino, Ovello, Barbaresco
2nd 2nd(Barbaresco) Cascina Val del Prete, "Vigna di Lino" Nebbiolo d'Alba
3rd 4th(Barbaresco) Marchesi di Greshy "Martinenga" Barbaresco
4th 5th(Roero) Bartolo Mascarello, Barolo
5th 3rd(Barolo) Palladino, Barolo
6th 6th(Roero) Cascin Ca'Rossa, "Momissano" Roero
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