Every morning for three days the above table greeted my colleagues and I at 9 A.M. For most, a long table filled with wine is a daunting and mind numbing task, but for the one hundred retailers and journalists it was a challenge. The Alba Wine Exhibition is a four day event that presents the most recent vintages of wines from the Roero DOCG, Barbaresco DOCG, and Barolo DOCG. Due to scheduling I was only able to attend the last three days and did not taste any of the wines from Roero and missed the majority of the Barbarescos. The experience to taste wines from the same vintage, grouped by commune, and sub-region (menzione geografica) was one of the greatest educational opportunities afforded to me.
Barbaresco DOCG and Barolo DOCG are small regions located in the province of Piedmont in northwest Italy. Both DOCG's are only allowed to produce red wine from the Nebbiolo grape. The Barbaresco DOCG was granted in December of 1980 and encompasses the communes of Barbaresco, Neive, Treiso and San Rocco Seno d'Elvio. The wine must be aged for at least two years, one of which must be in oak or chestunut barrels (size is not mandated). To many this seems crazy! Why would someone hold their wine back so long? It is an extreme investment for the producers, but the wine needs time and even after three years the wines are hard, tannic and not very friendly. Yet, as they age they become ethereal and so beautiful that many great Barbescos have stopped me in mid-sentence. The Barolo DOCG has similar requirements. Grapes may only come from the communes of Barolo, Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga d'Alba, and part of the following: Monforte d'Alba, Novello, La Morra, Verduno, Grinzane Cavour, Diano d'Alba, Cherasco and Roddi. Only vineyards that are located on soils that are primarily clay and limestone are allowed and they must be on the top of hillsides. Barolo must be aged a total of three years with at least two of years being in wood. So why is any of this important? Why not just explain how the wines tasted and the vintage? it is important to understand that these wines take time to grow, age and develop. If you have tried a Barolo or Barbaresco in the past and thought the wine was too harsh, too earthy, or too whatever, you now know have a glimpse into the time it takes the wines to be born. Barolo and Barbaresco are very special wines, they are not wines to have every night, they deserve good food, good friends, and time. They are not pretentious wines but they are not to be treated lightly as once you taste a great bottle your life will never be the same.
I am not able to speak confidently on the 2006 Barbaresco vintage, as I only tried the wines from Neive due to my arriving late. Reading over the press packet the Connsorzio would have you believe that 2006 was a spectacular vintage, but having spoken with others the 2006 vintage is mixed. It rained in September causing many of the wines to be dilute and lacking in the mid-palate. The consensus was that 2006 is a producer dependent vintage for the whole of the Barbaresco DOCG. The wines that I found with the most promise from Neive were: Barale Fratelli "Serraboella", Oddero "Gallina", Marco e Vittorio Adriano "Basarin" and Cascina Luisin "Basarin".
After we finished tasting the wines of Neive we began our journey through the 2005 Barolos and 2003 Barolo Riservas. The 2005 vintage was a challenge. As in 2006 there was rain in September but unlike 06' it was only for a week and at the end of the month. In speaking to various producers if you were on top of the weather reports you brought your grapes in prior to the rain and if not...your grapes go wet. Most of the vintners I spoke to said they all got their grapes in "on time" but not all were telling the truth, as some of their wines tasted dilute and lacked the substance of the others. 2005 is a vintage to either skip or only purchase wines from known producers, but I would only recommend that you purchase either after you have tasted the wines or you have a great relationship with a sommelier or retailer. I will be investing more of my cellar to 2004, 2001 and 1996. I may not be able to buy as much but wines from those vintages will provide me with much more pleasure now and over the long haul. As for the 2003 Riservas, they are horrid. The 2003 vintage was the year of extreme heat across all of Europe and the wines are over-ripe, higher in alcohol and just plain nasty. I asked a producer why did they waste the time and money on producing a riserva when they could have blended in their lots to make a stealler 03' normale? I was given a politcal answer and just decided that many producers did not want to admit that the 03's were a mistake. Riservas are aged a total of five years with three in wood. That extra year in wood, in my opinon, has caused the wines to taste dried out (the fruitiness is all gone). It is a shame that these wines are so bad. I do not recomend spending any money on 2003 Riserva Barolo.
For those that enjoy having a sampling of every vintage in their collection look to La Morra as a village. The wines were supple, fruity and in general had an accessibility to them that will at least provide an enjoyable glass of wine. The wines from Serralunga and Monforte d'Alba were not just their typical tough selves but many of the wines lacked the intensity and structure associate with those communes. However, as with everything in wine there were some producers that truly showed their art by producing good wines in a tough vintage.
Barolo Commune
Gianni Gagliardo, Cannubi
E. Pira e Figli, Cannubi
Virna Borgogno, Cannubi Boschis
Rinaldi Giuseppe, Cannubi San Lorenzo - Ravera and Brunate - le Coste
Cantina Bartolo Mascarello (Barolo/La Morra)
La Morra Commune
Bovio, Arborina "Vigna Arborina" and Gattera "Vigna Gattera"
Oddero, Brunate
Castiglione Falletto Commune
Brovia, Rocche
Vietti, Rocche
Giacomo Fenocchio, Villero
Monchiero
Monforte d'Alba Commune
Oddero, Bussia "Vigna Mondoca di Bussia Soprana"
Poderi Aldo Conerno, Bussia "Colonnello"
Mauro Veglio, Castelletto
Gianfranco Alessandria, San Giovanni
Serralunga d' Alba Commune
Brovia, Brea "Ca' Mia"
Germano Ettore, Cerretta
Guido Porro, Lazzarito, "Vigna Lazzairasco"
Throughout the three days one winery stood head and shoulders above all the others. Every time there was an Oddero in my glass the wine was balanced, elegant, and had everything in it that I love about Nebbiolo. If they make wine this good in an off vintage...run to find their 2004!
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