They just don't make Malbec: The best whites

As I disembarked from the plane on Thursday afternoon into a blustery gray, cold and wet day I longed to be in the vineyards at 6,000 feet enjoying some Cibo (baby goat) and a glass of wine. That glass of wine would not necessarily have to be Malbec. Though the Malbecs of Mendoza are fantastic it is not prudent to just stop there with your exploration of the region. Over the week I tried great examples of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Torrontes, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Caberent Sauvgion and even some yummy sparkling wine. Though Argentina has had vines for hundreds of years it has just been within the past decade that the best vignerons have been selecting vineyard sites to specific varietals and clones to get the most out their grapes. The changes are clearly evident in the quality that I found in the glass.

The Best Whites:

Tapiz, Sparkling Wine, Extra Brut 2008 (50% Chardonnay/50% Pinot Noir) Mendoza

This is the first vintage of sparkling wine for Tapiz and out of the gate they have produced a lovely sparkler. Grown at their San Pablo vineyard (photo above is of San Pablo) at 1350 meters the wine is  bright, fresh, and fruity. Hints of McIntosh apples, green pears, ripe lemons with a slight touch of white flowers will seduce you as you smell the wine. The palate is soft and delicate with fine bubbles dancing on your palate with the fruit flavors waltzing along. Produced by the traditional method and aged for 14 months on the lees. Not yet exported to the U.S.A. 400 cases produced $20 per bottle

Tapiz, Sauvignon Blanc, San Pablo Vineyard, Mendoza 2008

The San Pablo vineyard produced some of the most distinctive and unique wines I tried on the trip. The vineyard starts at 1300 meters and rises to 1500 meters. This altitude moderates the intense sun exposure by assuring that it is never too hot allowing the wines to keep their natural acidity and still have ample ripeness. This was the best Sauvginon Blanc of the trip having aromas of Meyer lemons, tangerine zest, lime leaf, lemon grass, and a hint of chalk. The wine sees no oak and is pure to its core. The palate is bright, clean and zesty. The flavors on the palate are echos of the aromas with a slight hint of Kiwi fruit on the finish.  1,000 cases produced $15 to $18 per bottle

Zolo, Chardonnay, Mendoza 2008

Zolo is the value line of Tapiz and this line is the perfect group of wines for our current economic woes. The Chardonnay is a blend of two vineyard sites and sees no oak. The wine is a pale straw color and has fresh tree fruit aromas of pears, Granny Smith apples, lemons, limes and a touch of creme fresh. The palate is lush with flavors of apple sauce, Honeydew melons and a bright pop of acidity. All of the tasters were very surprised by this wine, at $10 per bottleit is a steal! 15,000 cases produced

Tapiz, Chardonnay, Mendoza 2008

Where the Zolo Chardonnay is a refreshing, fun and easy to drink glass of wine, the Tapiz Chardonnay is an elegant, complex, and subtle wine that had me taking notes for almost twenty minuets. Like the Zolo, the Tapiz is from two different vineyards one located at 950 meters and the other at 1350 meters. The wine is barrel fermented and aged in oak. The wine is a melange of aromas that seem at first over-whelming but as you delve deeper you see the thread that keeps them all together and creates a wine of complexity that I honestly did not expect to see out of Argentina. Aromas of ripe apples, pears, lemon curd, sweet baking spices, and hints of exotic tropical fruits. The palate is medium in body with richness balanced by a bright pop of acidity on the finish. 8,000 cases produced $15 to $18 per bottle

Zolo, Viognier, San Pablo Vineyard, Mendoza 2008

When I first tried this wine in 2006 I was blown away! My companion tasters thought I was crazy to want to bring it to the US, saying there was no way I could sell Viognier from Argentina, well their loss. With the first vintage in 2006 being only 100 cases we sold it all and now I get first dibs on this wine and it is even better than the two previous vintages. If you have been wary of Viognier this is the one to seek out. It is the pure essence of the grape with beautiful aromas of white peach, nectarine and apricot mixed with Magnolias, bitter almonds, and chalk dust. Who would have thought that an inexpensive quirky varietal would be so amazing? The nose and the palate are in lock step with a refreshing amount of acidity to force you to have another glass. This is a beautiful glass of wine. 200 cases produced $10 per bottle

Zolo, Torrontes, Famakina Valley, La Rioja 2008

Torrontes is what many consider "THE" white of Argentina. While it is a lovely grape, I don't believe it is "THE" white, but one of many that are lovely. La Rioja is a wine region north of Mendoza and produces many of the country's best examples of Torrontes. The varietal is VERY aromatic. The moment you pull the cork it may just bowl you over with its intense stone fruits and white flowers. It is very similar to dry Muscat but with more zip to it. In addition to the peaches and apricots there are aromas and flavors of tangelos, kumquats, and Mandarin oranges. The palate is crisp, refreshing and lively. This is a great wine for a summer afternoon. 1,000 cases produced $10 per bottle

Comments

[Marlene]

Thanks for the great article - after a recent trip to Argentina I fell in love with their many outstanding Malbecs - you have broadened my horizons - I will try your recommendations. Wishing you the best.

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