L’Ambroisie: The Food

Mis en place is a term used in kitchens to mean “everything in its place.” At L’Ambroisie mis en place means perfection in every aspect of the restaurant—and none could be truer than in the food. L’Ambroisie is not a place to find foams, edible paper or any other item that you need directions to eat. At L’Ambroisie, the food is pure, honest and beautiful. The care taken in selecting each ingredient is evident in every dish. Each element of a dish can be tasted and savored individually, yet the harmony in which all parts play is greater than the sum. L’Ambroisie is a true foodie’s paradise.

Our incredible server Pascal guided us through the menu and selected our wines for the evening. We began our meal with a glass of Roederer Brut Premier Champagne (non-vintage). The amuse buche for the evening was a perfectly cooked piece of sea bream sautéed with an olive tapenade. The dish was pure, simple and delicious. On the first bite I knew we were in the hands of a chef whose heart was in the food and whose soul sung in every dish.

Our second wine of the evening was Pierre Morey, Meursault “Les Tessons” 2001. The wine was classic: pale golden in color, with aromas of hazelnut and crème fraiche, and hints of baked apples and lemons.

The next course was decadent; Shauna ordered chaud-froid d’oeufs mollets et asperges vertes au cresson, creme acidulée au caviar. This was one of the most unique dishes we have ever seen. The soft-boiled eggs were dyed green, placed on a bed of asparagus with a spoon of caviar. In a silver sauce dish there was a dollop of crème fraiche. The eggs were rich and perfectly cooked. The texture and temperatures played with and against each other to make the experience singular. Hedonism met a new level with my first course, lobe de foie gras conift en gelée amarante, chutney de pomme verte et céleri. Rich, decadent, and pure luxury—this was the best foie I have ever had.

Pascal suggested that we split a fish dish and brought us ravigote de sole aux coquillages, emulsion á la coriandre. This was a beautiful dish. Ravigote is a veloute sauce made with fresh herbs, shallots and capers. The sauce was on the bottom of the plate and a perfectly cooked piece of sole was on top, along with mussels and a coriander sauce. Each element was so pure and flavorful, and every bite was a new exploration of my taste buds.

After our fish course our next wine was poured: Domaine Marquis d’Angerville, Volnay, “Clos des Ducs” 1er Cru 2001. The wine was a translucent cranberry red with vibrant sour cherry, raspberries, dried leaves and hints of fresh mushrooms. The palate was sublime with a finish that seemed to last for days.

Our main courses were a continuation of the best the Paris food markets have to offer. Shauna had navarin de homard et pommes de terre mouvelles au romarin—a lobster dish with roasted potatoes in a broth that was earthy and paired well with the wine. The flavors of the dish were exquisite but the lobster itself was over-cooked, which is the only critique we had all evening.

My main dish was carré d’agneau de Lozère en croûte de poivre, poêlée d’asperges et févettes, a rack of lamb encrusted with pepper in a sauce of its own juices. The dish continued the story of purity and the practice of selecting only the best ingredients. The lamb was cooked to perfection and the wine amplified the earthy elements of the dish. 

L’Ambroisie is a definitive culinary experience. Shauna and I have been very lucky to dine at many fine restaurants and L’Ambroisie is the best. We highly recommend the experience, but as with any luxury item, if you have to ask how much, it’s too much. We are praying that the dollar eventually gains some strength back, but the experience Shauna and I had will last a lifetime.

L’Ambroisie
9 Place des Vosges
75004 Paris
01.42.78.51.45
Reservations are a must
Dress is formal
$$$$ (don’t ask because we aren’t telling)

Following the main courses, we had a selection of various cheeses that were lovely (but not documented unfortunately... a bit too much wine) and finished our evening off with a cookie plate and an espresso.

Comments

[Robert R]

Jeff,

Wonderful review. And thank you for sharing it with us drooling readers.

On a side note. I have heard before from others that they found the lobster over cooked. And the response I often see is that blue lobsters often have a different texture then Maine lobster. Do you think that may have been the case?

Best always,

Robert

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