Before I start this post, a disclosure. I presently work for a company that distributes and represents Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte in California, whose wines I discuss in this post. I will always abstain from rating any wines I sell or which my company represents, to prevent any appearance of conflict. I will occasionally talk about such wines, but always with a disclosure of said representation, mainly if I encounter something totally cool or especially blog-worthy. I hope you agree this is the case here.
Yesterday, part of our staff assembled in the historic Spencer House on Haight Street for a very special tasting with Jean-Pierre Vincent, head winemaker for Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte. We tasted through several single vineyard Grand Cru champagnes - 2 Blancs des Blanc (Chardonnays) and 3 Blancs des Noir (Pinot Noirs) - which are some of the component of the Cuvee Palmes d'Or (PDO). He is touring around with three of each, but our bottle of Cramant Chardonnay was poured earlier in the day in place of a corked bottle. None of these bottlings are available in the US.
I found Jean-Pierre to quite charming and funny in a French sort of way. He walked us through each vineyard's characteristics and the place they have in his blends. I will give you a taste (no pun intended) of what he said, followed by my own notes.
Chardonnay
JPV - this is the component he blends for ageability in all his cuvees.
edc
- I found all the Grand Cru Chardonnays to be back palate focused,
meaning the taste was more concentrated in the back of my mouth and
lingered longer in the finish.
Chouilly 1997
JPV - At
the north end of Cote de Blancs, the primary Chardonnay-growing Grand
Cru region, this vineyard has a northern exposure. It yields complex,
floral and somewhat mineral wines, and is always a solid component of
the PDO.
edc - This wine is Carrie Bradshaw decked out for a night
at the opera - lovely to behold, but fiercely independent. Lovely pale
gold dress with a fine stream of bubbles. Apple orchard eau de parfum
with the slightest hint of brioche. The hard edge of acid on the palate
was tempered by a very delicate mousse which lingered in the mouth for
a few seconds before dissolving into a long, luxurious finish, 60
seconds plus. Tightly wound, this wine will mature gracefully.
le-Mesnil-sur-Oger 1997
JPV - Difficult cru to work with,
not very varietally true. Less minerality, more fruit. It borders Pinot
Noir vineyards, and it seems the closer you get to the border of the
other, the grapes on either side start to take on the other's
characteristics. Having said that, it is a very consistent ripener year
after year. Used only in moderation. Southern end of the Cote de
Blancs, eastern exposure (if memory serves).
edc - Much richer than
Chouilly, this wine was toasty and very ripe on the nose. Fuller bodied
and lower acid, this is the cream you add to the sauce to get the taste
just right. Delicate bubbles in freshly painted gold leaf. I can
appreciate the wisdom in blending this for a much better whole, and the
difficulty of doing it well. On its own, it was pleasant, but not
exceptional. Just right for medium-fatty meals or to showcase spices.
Pinot Noir
JPV - The skeleton of his blends, giving structure, and some fruit.
edc - Very forward on the palate, more in-your-face than the Chardonnays.
Verzenay 1997
JPV - North-facing, on the northern end of Montagne de Reims, a cool site.
edc
- Like a cherry cream pie in the face - delicious, but maybe not the
way you would have wanted it. You're sticking your nose closer and get
a whiff of whipped cherry mousse before BLAM! an explosion of fruit on
the palate. High acid, fine bubbles. Again, I can see how this would be
an excellent blender. I enjoyed it, but it lacked some of the finesse I
look for in champagne. I would tame it with lots of pate or dill-rubbed
salmon sashimi.
Aÿ 1997
JPV - South-facing, not far from Verzenay, but always predictably 1-1.5 degrees of sugar higher at harvest.
edc
- This wine is Michael Phelps at the same opera, if he would only wear
a strand of teeny pearls and gold lamé stretch pants. Just ripe plum on
the nose and up front on the palate. Rich, lingering mousse (no
chlorinated water here) sitting atop strong, broad shoulders and a lean
body. There is something terribly sophisticated about this wine - nix
the stretch pants - a complexity to the palate that, for me, is what
great champagne should taste like.
Ambonnay 1997
JPV - on the eastern edge of the Montagne de Reims.
edc
- If the Aÿ is the flavor of great champagne, this is the body and
mouthfeel. Although the bubbles are a bit courser than any of the
previous wines tasted, it gave the impression of elegancy and luxury -
a Rolls Royce body on Lexus flavors. Long and fine in the mouth,
flavorwise it disappointed the expectation set by its nose - that of
Grand Cru red Burgundy. I closed my eyes to smell, and I would have
been fooled. Mind-blowing, really.
I would have liked to play blender with these wines, to see if I could craft a cuvee that brought out all the best parts of each. Just the Pinots would have been serious fun.
Links
Carrie Bradshaw - Sex and the City
Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte
Michael Phelps
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